The word "preservative" can spark alarm, and for good reason. Many preservatives commonly used in cosmetics can be harmful to our health, posing carcinogenic, endocrine disrupting threats, irritation to the skin, and a build up of toxicity. However, preservation can look very different than the toxic picture so commonly painted, and in fact is very necessary when working with products that contain a water component.
When beginning to offer skincare products, I knew that I wanted to create a tallow-based skin cream- emphasis on cream, and not balm. Though there are many beautiful tallow balms on the market, I wanted to create a product that was animal-based yet offered a feel of luxury, sinking into the skin with ease. I wanted to be able to include water soluble ingredients like honey and botanically powerful hydrosols for the beautiful hydration they provide to the skin, in addition to the rich, moisturising lipids and oleoresins. This wasn't something I've seen on the market, and upon beginning my research on ingredients, I could see why.
Finding preservatives that meet the criteria of being safe and effective can be a challenge.
However, with much research, I was able to find different methods of preservation that felt right for Flora Numina products. Here's a peek into the not-so-familiar ingredients you may see in our products, what they are, and why they are included in our formulas:
Sodium Anisate and Sodium Levulinate
The sodium salt from p-anisic acid and levulinic acid are derived from anise and non-gmo sugarcane. This pairing has a broad-spectrum preservation effect, working against yeast, mold, and bacteria. For all its power, it remains gentle and well-tolerated on the skin.
Magnolia Extract
Magnolia bark is rich in two specific compounds that have been studied for their presrevation effects- Honokiol and Magnolol. In addition to protecting formulas against yeast and mold, this extract has shown to protect the skin against acne-causing bacteria and inflammation.
Aspen Bark Extract
Aspen bark is a rich source of naturally occurring salicylates. Salicylates are a group of organic compounds often found in various forms in skincare thanks to their antimicrobial and skin-softening qualities. Adding aspen bark into our products was a way to get these benefits from a naturally occurring source.
Glyceryl Caprylate
Our glyceryl caprylate is derived from non-gmo glycerin and caprylic acid (a fatty acid derived from coconut). This ingredient works as a preservative booster, working synergistically with the other antimicrobials in our formulas, enhancing their effect while also stabilising the emulsions and imparting further skin-softening qualities.
Elderberry Extract
Elderberry extract is typically used in oil-based formulas for its antioxidant content that can keep oils fresher for longer. Given the high stability of the saturated fats used in our formulas, the elderberry extract is included more for the anti-fungal properties of the undecylenic acid, as well as it anti-aging qualities that elderberry provides for the skin.
Miron Biophotonic Glass
While not exactly a preservative, the packaging we use is selected to help keep the potency of our products intact. The violet glass bottles and jars we use are designed to allow in ultraviolet and infrared light, while blocking out the rest. This results in protected products that can retain their vitality via protected biophotons, the inclusion of healing light rays, and protection against the harmful ones, limiting the degradation of the contents compared to other types of glass or plastics.
While not an exhaustive list, hopefully the above information can elucidate some of the methods and ingredients we use to keep our products at their peak. Preservatives are necessary, but toxins are not. We won't compromise efficacy and function for health, and with the above methods we don't have to.