When formulating our new face lotion, Nectar, we wanted to look at how a healthy stratum corneum naturally looks in order to know how to best support it.
A compromised skin barrier can be easily permeated my bacteria and pollutants, while hydration and moisture can easily evaporate out of the skin. A damaged skin barrier is the dermatological equivalent to having a leaky gut, where nutrition and a healthy biome is not able to be retained/maintained, and inflammation and pathogenic factors can flourish. A healthy skin barrier is foundational. Healing the skin barrier should be a priority when addressing virtually all skin concerns.
There are 3 primary lipids that make up the stratum corneum, a.k.a. the skin barrier. In this system, skin cells are likened to “bricks”, while these lipids act like the mortar holding together, thus providing strength and structure, to these cell.
Ceramides
Ceramides make up around 50% of our epidermis. They keep skin cells bonded together, like a glue. They fortify the integrity of our skin, and reduce TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss).
Fatty acids
Fatty acids are part of the building blocks of the stratum corneum, while also helping it maintain an optimal acidic pH to defend against pathogens and create the right environment for a healthy dermatological microbiome. Nectar contains a range of naturally occurring fatty acids from emu oil and organic lanolin and ghee.
Cholesterol
Cholesterol brings extra strength and structure to the barrier, managing its permeability. We use both pure cholesterol in Nectar, as well as the naturally cholesterol-rich organic lanolin.
In addition to the inclusion of these lipids, Nectar is structured to mimic the skins lamellar structure. The skin barrier is structured in a lamellar, or “liquid crystal” structure.
Most emulsifiers used in cosmetics arrange films of oil around droplets of water, rather than in the sheet-like layers of oil and water found in our skin. Nectar uses an emulsification system that is designed to self-assemble in a biomimetic way, with this liquid crystal structure. This type of emulsification is thought to be superior when working with the barrier, and is compatible to our skins nature, allowing better absorption and hydration.
Following along with the goal of bio-compatibility, we included squalene in Nectar. Squalene is naturally found in the skin, making up 10-12% of our own sebum. Squalene is lightweight, non-comedogenic, and readily utilised by our skin to moisturise and repair gaps between skin cells.
The stratum corneum is an intelligent and vital system that protects our largest organ- the skin. Nectar was inspired by the natural structure and organisation of this system, harnessing this wisdom in a topical application that works to repair and support it.